რა უნდა ვიცოდეთ Met Gala-ს შესახებ

Met Gala ყოველწლიური კოსტიუმირებული გალა-წვეულებაა, რომელიც ნიუ-იორკში იმართება მეტროპოლიტენის ხელოვნების მუზეუმის კოსტიუმების ინსტიტუტის მესვეურობით. მას ასევე Met Ball-ს უწოდებენ. მეტროპოლიტენ მუზეუმის კოსტიუმების გამოფენა 1948 წლიდან იღებს სათავეს (ის პუბლიცისტმა ელანორ ლამბერტმა დააარსა) და ამ დროიდან მოყოლებული, მასზე უამრავი ცნობილი პიროვნება და შთამბეჭდავი თემატური კოსტიუმები გვინახავს.

დღესდღეობით მეთ გალა მაღალკომერციული, სელებრითების ფავორიტი და მედიისგან ფართოდ გაშუქებული ღონისძიებაა, რომლის მონაწილეთა უმეტესობა ნაკლებ არის დაინტერესებული თავად მუზეუმით, გამოფენით ან კოსტიუმების ინსტიტუტის მისიით. მათ უბრალოდ ექსტრავაგანტურ სამოსში გამოწყობა და გამორჩეული ფოტოების გადაღება სურთ. არადა, აღნიშნულ გამოფენას იმაზე დიადი ისტორია აქვს, ვიდრე შეიძლება გეგონოთ.

მეტროპოლიტენ მუზეუმის კოსტიუმების ინსტიტუტმა ჩამოყალიბებული ფორმა 1959 წელს მიიღო, 1973 წელს კი მის კონსულტანტად ლეგენდარული მოდელიორი დიანა ვრილანდი დაინიშნა, რომელმაც 69 წლის ასაკში დატოვა ჟურნალ Vogue-ის რედაქტორის პოსტი და მეტროპოლიტენ მუზეუმში გადაინაცვლა. ამ იდეას ხელი ჟაკლინ კენედი-ონასისმა შეუწყო – სწორედ მისი დაჟინებული თხოვნით (და დაფინანსებით) მოგვევლინა ვრილანდი Met-ის ხელმძღვანელად.

დიანა ვრილანდი

ვრილანდს თავისი იდეების კოსტიუმების მუზეუმში განსახორციელებლად სრული თავისუფლება და ფინანსური მხარდაჭერა ჰქონდა. მან ლეგენდარული დიზაინერის, კრისტობალ ბალენსიაგას ნამუშევრების დიდი რეტროსპექტივით დაიწყო კოსტიუმების მუზეუმის ყოველწლიური გამოფენა-ფესტივალები, რაც თანდათან ნიუ-იორკის სიამაყედ და მაღალი საზოგადოების რჩეულ მოვლენად იქცა.

გალას სტუმრები მუზეუმში კოქტეილის საღამოს ჩაცმულობით, საუკეთესო კაბებითა და ძვირფასეულობით თავიდანვე იწონებდნენ თავს. მთავარი ამ ღონისძიებაში კოსტიუმების გამოფენის დათვალიერება იყო – კოსტიუმები კი ვრილანდის საფირმო სტილში იყო გამოფენილი: ოდნავ განათებულ ტაბლოზე განლაგებული უსახო, ხანდახან თავზე კოლგოტჩამოცმული მანეკენები, ემოციური მუსიკა და ხშირად ჰაერში გაფრქვეული სუნამო მნახველებზე სათანადო შთაბეჭდილებას ახდენდა…

ჟაკლინ კენედი-ონასისი და სერ ჰიუ ფრეიზერი კოსტიუმების ინსტიტუტის გალაზე, 1979 წელს. თემა – “ჰაფსბურგების ხანის მოდა”

გალა საღამოებზე სპეციალური სტუდენტური ბილეთებიც კი იყიდებოდა, რომლებიც ხელოვნებით დაინტერესებულ სტუდენტებს საშუალებას აძლევდა, საზეიმო სადილამდე მუზეუმი დაეთვალიერებინათ, შემდეგ კი მათ საერთო დარბაზში იწვევდნენ სასმელზე.

დიანა ვრილანდი და ივ სენ ლორანი მეთ გალაზე 1981 წელს

წლების განმავლობაში გალა სულ უფრო და უფრო ბრწყინვალე გახდა, მასზე დასწრება კი – ძალზე პრესტიჟული რამ, რაც არამარტო ხელოვნებასთან დაკავშირებულ საზოგადოებას იზიდავდა, არამედ ზოგადად, დიდი გავლენის მქონე პიროვნებებს. მეთ გალაში მონაწილეობა მიუღია მსოფლიოს მაღალი მოდის თითქმის ყველა ბრწყინვალე წარმომადგენელს: ივ სენ ლორანს, კარლ ლაგერფელდს, კელვინ კლაინს, ვერსაჩეს, ალექსანდრ მაკქუინს… თავისი დროის ყველაზე წარმატებულ მოდელებს, პოლიტიკოსებს, ბიზნესმენებსა და სხვა გამოჩენილ პიროვნებებს. რაც შეეხება თემატურ სამოსს, წლიდან წლამდე ის უფრო და უფრო თამამი ხდებოდა.

აქვარია – პირველი დრაგ ქუინი მეთ გალას წითელ ხალიჩაზე, 2019

წელს მეთ გალა კოსტიუმების ინსტიტუტის კურატორის, სუზენ ზონტაგის 1964 წლის ესეს “Notes on ‘Camp”-ის თემატიკით იყო შთაგონებული. ამ ესეში ავტორი იმ გავლენებზე საუბრობდა, რომლებიც არტ-ნუვოს მოძრაობამ მოდაზე მოახდინა. ამ აქცენტებით შთაგონებულ დიზაინერებს შორის იყვნენ Schiaparelli, Moschino, დიორი, თომ ბროუნი და მრავალი სხვა, შესაბამისად, წელს ვარსკვლავების ჩაცმულობა შესაბამის ესთეტიკას ეხმაურებოდა. რაც შეეხება მთავარ ფერს, წელს ის ვარდისფერი იყო (მათ შორის, ხალიჩაც).

ლედი გაგა წლევანდელ მეთ გალაზე
ნაომი კემპბელი
ჯარედ ლეტო
ეზრა მილერი

ბოლოს კი წარმოგიდგენთ მეთ გალას კოსტიუმირებული საღამოს თემებს ვრილანდის ხანიდან (1973-1994) დღემდე (2019).

1973: ბალენსიაგას სამყარო

1974: რომანტიკული და გლამურული ჰოლივუდური დიზაინი

1975: მოდური ამერიკელი ქალები

1976: რუსული კოსტიუმის დიდებულება

1977: Vanity Fair: საგანძური

1978: Diaghilev: Ballet Russe-ის კოსტიუმები და დიზაინი

1979: ავსტრია-უნგრეთი – ჰაფსბურგების ხანის მოდა

1980: დრაკონი მანჩუ: ჩინური კოსტიუმები

1981: მე-18 საუკუნის ქალები

1982: Le Belle Epoque

1983: ივ სენ ლორანი: დიზაინის 25 წელი

1984: მამაკაცი და ცხენი

1985: ინდური სამეფო კოსტიუმები

1986: ცეკვა

1987: სტილი: კოსტიუმების ინსტიტუტის 50 წლის იუბილე

1988: დედოფლიდან იმპერატორობამდე: ვიქტორიანული სამოსი

1989: ნაპოლეონის ხანა

1990: თეატრი de le Mode

1991: გალა გამოფენის გარეშე

1992: მოდა და ისტორია: დიალოგი

1993: დიანა ვრილანდი: არაზომიერი სტილი (მისის ვრილანდის გახსენება)

1994: ორიენტალიზმი: აღმოსავლეთის ანარეკლი დასავლურ სამოსში

1995: “Haute Couture”

1996: კრისტიან დიორი

1997: ჯანი ვერსაჩე

1998: კუბიზმი და მოდა

1999: როკსტილი

2000: თემის გარეშე

2001: ჟაკლინ კენედი: თეთრი სახლის წლები

2002: თემის გარეშე

2003: ქალღმერთი: კლასიკური სტილი

2004: სახიფათო კავშირები: მე-18 საუკუნის მოდა და ავეჯი

2005: “The House of Chanel”

2006: ანგლომანია: ბრიტანული მოდის ტრადიცია და ტრანსგრესია

2007: პუარე: მოდის მეფე

2008: სუპერგმირები: მოდა და ფენტეზი

2009: მოდელი, როგორც მუზა: განსხეულებული მოდა

2010: ამერიკელი ქალი: მოდაში გამოხატული ნაციონალური იდენტობა

2011: ალექსანდრ მაკქუინი: ველური სილამაზე

2012: სჩაპარელი და პრადა: შეუძლებელი დიალოგი

2013: პანკი: ქაოსი და მაღალი მოდა

2014: ჩარლზ ჯეიმსი: მოდის მიღმა

2015: ჩინეთი: სარკის მიღმა

2016: Manus x Machina: ტექნოლოგიის ხანის მოდა

2017: რეი კავაკუბო

2018: ზეციური სხეულები: მოდა და კათოლიკური წარმოსახვები

2019: Camp: მოდის აქცენტები (არტ-ნუვოს ესთეტიკური მოძრაობა)

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